Japanese maple #5 progression

MACH5

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Leaves are starting to pop on this maple. This is also a good time for viewing Japanese maples as the reddish leaves begin to unfurl. Already bud pinching was done in the strongest areas to keep them from getting too strong and thick. All else will be left to extend naturally and then will be cut back in May.

 

Paulpash

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Leaves are starting to pop on this maple. This is also a good time for viewing Japanese maples as the reddish leaves begin to unfurl. Already bud pinching was done in the strongest areas to keep them from getting too strong and thick. All else will be left to extend naturally and then will be cut back in May.

Did you use tweezers to pick out the central buds in the top third of the tree?
 

JudyB

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How do you determine when you do your cutback in May? I have so much new growth on my maples this year I can't see the trunks! I've decided to do the "hedge" method this year, so am trying to determine when the cutback happens.

She is waking up beautifully.
 

MACH5

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In my case Marie I do not use tweezers. I simply use my finger tips. Often it is enough to bend them slightly and they brake off very easily if you get them early enough. I also try to pinch as early as possible, when the leaves are barely coming out. I cannot get to all of them when I want but I try.
 

MACH5

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How do you determine when you do your cutback in May? I have so much new growth on my maples this year I can't see the trunks! I've decided to do the "hedge" method this year, so am trying to determine when the cutback happens.

She is waking up beautifully.


Yes isn't she pretty! :) I cut back (or not) by just looking at different parts of the tree and what stage they are in. What I need to grow longer and what I need to hold back. It's important, I think, to let your tree be a tree and put on some growth and not constantly pinch it back at least everywhere. It will keep your tree healthy.

The hedge method intrigues me but I think this is for trees that are still in high development. You also get more random ramification which can be nice to help you achieve a natural feel on your tree. Depends of many factors I think. I do believe it is not for everyone and certainly not for every tree. For a more detailed and finished tree, the hedge method can lead to over thickening of branches if you're not careful.
 

JudyB

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The hedge method intrigues me but I think this is for trees that are still in high development
That's why I'm going to try it on a couple of things, Piglett for sure... And Bertha's cousin to some extent. Will see how it works out.
 

Eric Group

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Yes isn't she pretty! :) I cut back (or not) by just looking at different parts of the tree and what stage they are in. What I need to grow longer and what I need to hold back. It's important, I think, to let your tree be a tree and put on some growth and not constantly pinch it back at least everywhere. It will keep your tree healthy.

The hedge method intrigues me but I think this is for trees that are still in high development. You also get more random ramification which can be nice to help you achieve a natural feel on your tree. Depends of many factors I think. I do believe it is not for everyone and certainly not for every tree. For a more detailed and finished tree, the hedge method can lead to over thickening of branches if you're not careful.
I think we talked about this some last year and there is certainly a different approach for trees in different levels of development. I generally use the "hedge" method on most of my Maples because I am still trying to develop trunks, and/ or just starting to develop branches... Thickening is what I want! Most of the trees you have seem to be farther along and in need of refinement not rapid thickening, and your method of removing the central bud slows the Spring explosion of growth a bit, leads to finer, twiggy growth and is perfectly suitable- obviously- for your trees! The results speak to that!
As for the timing Judy - let it get nice and shaggy! About 4-5 internodes+, then cut the branches back to right about the first or second internode of new growth. (I think WP says he literally HEDGES the tree, but I usually still prune each branch independently with the overall shape of the crown in mind...) Obviously, if there are sacrifice branches or areas of the tree you want to thicken more than others, heal a wound... Leave those branches alone, and "hedge" the rest of the tree... Repeat again as often as the tree needs it during the growing season. If this is a developing tree you want to expand the crown on a bit, get a thicker trunk, heal some wounds, thicken some branches... This is a great method! If your tree is in refinement stage like Mach's- slowing the growth by pinching Spring buds seems the best/ most commonly recommended technique!

I did pinch some buds this year on a Red Maple I have that has been in training for years, and I am doing my best to minimize the coarse growth and promote some ramification, especially in the top. I also pruned the heavy branches back to the lowest buds right at the base of the branch on some spots where the first internode is too long, basically starting the secondary growth over with- HOPEFULLY- two small twigs instead of one long, thick one... I am still firmly trying to convince myself that Palmatum technique will work on Rubrum!
 

JudyB

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Actually I went out today and did just that, cut all the strong areas back to the first or second internode. Crazy growth this spring, more than I've ever seen this fast. Beyond shaggy...
 

MACH5

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I think we talked about this some last year and there is certainly a different approach for trees in different levels of development. I generally use the "hedge" method on most of my Maples because I am still trying to develop trunks, and/ or just starting to develop branches... Thickening is what I want! Most of the trees you have seem to be farther along and in need of refinement not rapid thickening, and your method of removing the central bud slows the Spring explosion of growth a bit, leads to finer, twiggy growth and is perfectly suitable- obviously- for your trees! The results speak to that!
As for the timing Judy - let it get nice and shaggy! About 4-5 internodes+, then cut the branches back to right about the first or second internode of new growth. (I think WP says he literally HEDGES the tree, but I usually still prune each branch independently with the overall shape of the crown in mind...) Obviously, if there are sacrifice branches or areas of the tree you want to thicken more than others, heal a wound... Leave those branches alone, and "hedge" the rest of the tree... Repeat again as often as the tree needs it during the growing season. If this is a developing tree you want to expand the crown on a bit, get a thicker trunk, heal some wounds, thicken some branches... This is a great method! If your tree is in refinement stage like Mach's- slowing the growth by pinching Spring buds seems the best/ most commonly recommended technique!

I did pinch some buds this year on a Red Maple I have that has been in training for years, and I am doing my best to minimize the coarse growth and promote some ramification, especially in the top. I also pruned the heavy branches back to the lowest buds right at the base of the branch on some spots where the first internode is too long, basically starting the secondary growth over with- HOPEFULLY- two small twigs instead of one long, thick one... I am still firmly trying to convince myself that Palmatum technique will work on Rubrum!


Yes agreed!
 

MACH5

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That's why I'm going to try it on a couple of things, Piglett for sure... And Bertha's cousin to some extent. Will see how it works out.


Judy when you mentioned the hedge method I immediately thought of your "Piglett" and "Babs" cousin although not sure who "Bertha" is?? :p Let us know how it works out.
 
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MACH5

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Actually I went out today and did just that, cut all the strong areas back to the first or second internode. Crazy growth this spring, more than I've ever seen this fast. Beyond shaggy...


Boy you are way ahead of me. My leaves are just starting to pop. All my maples are very, very late this year.
 

Eric Group

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Actually I went out today and did just that, cut all the strong areas back to the first or second internode. Crazy growth this spring, more than I've ever seen this fast. Beyond shaggy...
I hear that.. I am seeing the same thing it seems. I don't know if my trees are actually growing faster this year, or if I just forgot how fast they grow in Soring because it has been a year, but my Maples and Pines especially are EXPLODING! I already pruned back my "top" Maple once, but the branches I left alone to expand are... Well over a foot long now, and the candles on my JBP I have in the ground... I literally measured one last week and it was already a foot long! Maybe I am over fertilizing, but when I WANT them to expand, I like this kind of growth! Not worried about coarse growth or long internodes because most all of what has been growing so fast will be removed!
 

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Is the hedge method an actual thing that I can get a link to or...? If so that'd be awesome!
 

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Thanks. Excellent work in explaining and photo documenting the progress. Very helpful to see the stages.
 

JudyB

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Boy you are way ahead of me. My leaves are just starting to pop. All my maples are very, very late this year.
Greenhouse, gives me about an extra month of growing season... Oh, and Bertha, I meant Babs!!!:oops:
 

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I appreciate the creativeness of your idea to reposition that one branch in the manner that you did, M5. Simple and great idea. Lots of fun horticultural work you do to your maples.
 

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I will try and post an update soon :)


I appreciate the creativeness of your idea to reposition that one branch in the manner that you did, M5. Simple and great idea. Lots of fun horticultural work you do to your maples.


Thanks Thumbless! What is great about learning how to do this sort of thing, is that it can give you great options to improve or even the ability to transform a given tree.
 
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