Volcanic Adventures in South Bandung
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Surrounded by tall volcanoes is the capital of West Java, the metropolis of Bandung. No trip to this sprawling Indonesian city would be complete without a visit to one of its smouldering neighbours. What follows is our story of the day we spent exploring the volcanic peaks south of Bandung.
We were staying at the D&D Backpackers Guesthouse and hostel, and every day they run a back of the bike trip, showcasing the best of south Bandung. The tour would begin in the early hours of the morning and would take in the white crater of Kawah Putih, the green tea fields of Ciwidey before moving onto the volcanic springs at Kawah Rengganis.
On paper this sounded like a great day out, in reality it turned out to be much, much more!
The Tour Begins
Up with the sun, we made our way downstairs with bleary eyes and were straightaway handed a box of breakfast treats. One strong coffee and a few pastries later and we were ready to go.
There were 9 of us on the tour and each of us were assigned a driver and a scooter for the day. We were told we could ask the driver to stop whenever we wanted; for toilet breaks, photo opportunities or anything else. After meeting our drivers, we hopped onto the back of the bikes and with the roar of scooter engines we rode out through the hostel gates.
There’s nothing better than being on the back of a motorbike. Weaving through the city's busy early morning traffic, skimming past street side market stalls before finally bursting out into the open green landscapes of rice paddies, all the while with the wind tickling your ears and your arms no less than a foot from traffic!
Leaving the urban sprawl of Bandung behind, we biked our way through farmlands and villages, and up towards the volcanic crater of Kawah Putih.
Kawah Putih / The White Crater
Kawah Putih or The White Crater as it’s more commonly known, is 50 km drive away from the centre of Bandung city. Driving to the crater from the city takes around two hours. If you weren’t visiting the crater with an organised tour, you could easily book a driver or hire a car from Bandung.
As we pulled into the car park, we got our tickets (see later) and hopped onto a shuttle bus that would take us up to the crater.
We were dropped off at the top, but instead of heading into the main entrance with everybody else, we headed to the left. Budi, our tour leader, had insider knowledge and could take us where the crowds wouldn’t go.
A brief walk later and we emerged into some amazing tea fields. The fields stretched out as far as the eye could see, so we paused for some selfies before taking a small path onwards. The path was worryingly labelled “no entry, area forbidden” but we were reassured that we were in expert hands, and that this was actually the way to the “secret viewpoint”. Trusting in our guide, we wound our way through the woodland and up the side of the volcano. We came out into the sunlight and burst out onto an incredible vista of the white crater.
Kawah Putih is a vast sulphurous lake, ringed with burned out trees, steaming geysers and lush vegetation. It’s an incredible site, full of all the contrasts you’d imagine from a volcanic landscape. The vibrant greens of the jungle flow up against the black and yellow charred remains of previous eruptions, whilst below the eerie chemical blue of the sulphur lake, reminds you, that although beautiful, this was a landscape full of inherent danger.
We made our way across the crater rim, taking in various views of the lake. Up here, there was just our group and the occasional intrepid hiker, but we could see down in the crater below, the weekend crowds were out in full force. We were very glad to have Budi lead us, and showing us the amazing top down views.
If you want to see the crater from above, you can do this without walking through the jungle and passing through forbidden areas. Just look for signs directing you to the Kawah Putih Lookout Point (location), this is the way we came back down.
Down in the crater itself we made our way to the waters edge at the sulphur lake. All around us the mud was stained white and yellow, and crunched beneath our feet. If it wasn't for the ever present eggy smell and the steaming geysers, the white and yellow shore and blue lake looked like a tropical beach! We did not swim…
It may look inviting but…
The crater was much busier than the rim but had lots of walkways, selfie spots, and secluded places so you didn't feel overcrowded. From the lakeside, down low, you really could appreciate the scale of the crater, it was hard to grasp the size when you were above it!
We came back down the volcano to the car park and stopped for a tasty lunch.
We had spicy Ayam Goreng and were given some delicious crunchy bala bala (think Indonesian tempura) to try on the side. After lunch Budi gave us some of the locally grown strawberries that thrive in the volcanic soil, they were so sweet and lovely!
Refuelled and recharged it was back on the bike and on to our next stop.
Visiting Kawah Putih - Essential Information
What is the entrance fee for Kawah Putih?
The ticket price for parking, shuttle bus and entrance to the crater costs 110,000 IDR per person (£6.76 or $8.19).
If you’re visiting the crater with the D&D tour, this entrance fee is included in the cost of the tour.
How to get to Kawah Putih ?
Kawah Putih is located here.
You will need motorised transport. There are no direct buses so you will either need to hire a driver, book a tour or hire a bike / car for yourself. The roads to the crater are not bad by Indonesian standards but we would recommend only the confident try to drive in Bandung!
From Bandung: the crater lies around 2 hours or 50km outside the city.
From Jakarta: If you are coming from the capital to Kawah Putih it is a 3.5 hour drive (including some toll roads) and around 190km.
How long do you need to spend at Kawah Putih?
If you want to get the amazing views and visit the crater then we would allow at least two hours.
The trail up is not too long (no matter which route you take) but is very steep! It is 100% worth going up to the rim and getting the incredible views. If you go at the weekend allow a little extra time for the queues and crowds.
Is Kawah Putih dangerous?
Short answer: No.
Longer answer: Not really - The crater is closely monitored and would be closed if any dangerous activity was discovered. The sulphur fumes are smelly but not dangerous to breath in the crater. It is not like other volcanoes where you should carry gas masks! The crater is perfectly safe, just stick to the paths, do not go too close to the edge when up at the top and, under no circumstances, go for a swim in the lake.
Facilities at Kawah Putih
There are plenty of toilets, both at the top and in the bottom car park. There are small shops and restaurants throughout the site selling refreshments, trinkets and food. In the car park there are tons of hawkers selling local produce such as strawberries and tea.
Tea Fields of Ciwidey
After another stunning drive down from Kawah Putih we entered the tea fields. We had seen some earlier in the day but nothing on this scale. The emerald green fields, with their spiralling paths and flat-topped hedgerows carpeted the landscape in their swirling patterns. We parked our bikes and set off into the green tea gardens.
Making our way between the tea bushes we wandered up and onto a promontory rock jutting above the fields, it was time for some photographs! We snapped away whilst Budi explained the tea growing and harvesting process. We filled our memory cards and headed back to our bikes.
It was whilst in the tea fields we encountered one of our favourite aspects of road life in Indonesia - the coaches. In Indonesia the coach drivers have taken it upon themselves to entertain the people they drive past. The buses are wildly decorated with lights and a sea of dashboard ornaments. But what really sets them apart are their horns. A normal horn is two-toned, maybe can play 3 seconds of melody if it is really fancy, Indonesian buses play a freaking sonata! The buses charge down the curved roads playing half of Beethoven's Fifth whilst the village children dance away or chase after them on bikes. This is especially fun to watch when it is a chain of coaches, each with their own signature tune. As we made our way back through the fields, coaches passed by, each one trailed with a stream of excited children.
Back on the bikes, it was time to drive to our final stop.
Visiting The Tea Fields Of Ciwedy - Essential Information
How to get to the tea fields?
Located a short drive from Kawah Putih crater, tea fields line both sides of the road. The tea field we stopped at had no formal “viewing platform”, we just pulled over in a layby and headed into the field. If you wanted a more curated experience, there were plenty of tea gardens with car parks and cafes.
The tea plantations can be found all over the sides of Mount Patuha and line the road between Kawah Putih and Kawah Rengganis Cibuni.
Again it is a 2 hour drive from Bandung, or a 3.5 hour drive from Jakarta.
Kawah Rengganis Cibuni / the Rengganis Crater and Suspension Bridge
After a very scenic drive, through the tea fields and villages, we pulled into the car park for Kawah Rengganis. We were here to visit the hot springs, but first we had to cross the enormous suspension bridge spanning two sides of the valley.
This is one of the longest suspension bridges in south east Asia, spanning over 350 metres, and hanging 70 metres above the jungle floor below. It is not for those who don’t like heights! As we began to cross the gently swaying bridge, the mist from the valley and smoke from the crater mingled to carpet the valley and shroud the ends of the bridge.
The bridge serves to connect visitors with the Rengganis Crater and its hot springs. But before we could enjoy a hot soak, Budi and his team had another “treat” for us. Veering off the path, we headed into the jungle, wading through fast flowing streams, and clambering over rocks, until we found ourselves at the “sacred waterfall”. Budi instructed us to dunk ourselves three times in the cold water of the plunge pool under the waterfall. The shock of going from the tropical humid heat into ice cold water, was extreme, but very refreshing. We don’t know if all tours go here, or if this was just a perk of going with D&D.
Appropriately cleansed by the sacred waterfall, it was time for a mud bath. Standing next to bubbling mud pits, we slathered on volcanic mud, covering ourselves from head to toe. Looking a bit like Morph we shuffled, mud cracking as it dried, over to the volcanic “showers”. The “showers” were channels and pipes coming out of the rocks, funnelling the hot volcanic water. Ducking into the showers we de-mudded ourselves and headed for the hot springs.
They came from the swamps…
There are three hot spring baths at Kawah Rengganis, one warm, one medium and one hot. Choosing the hottest first, we sank into the volcanic water. It was nearly too hot to handle, but after a moment you could just feel your muscles relax. After the hot bath, we moved between the other baths until we resembled raisins.
Budi had one final surprise for us at the crater. Instead of climbing back up the stairs as we presumed we would, he pointed to a zip line, which hung across the canyon. This was no ordinary zip line, this was the “Sultan’s Basket”. OK, zip line may be misleading, it was more like a chair lift or gondola across the valley, but instead of a cabin there appeared to be garden furniture attached to the line. We strapped ourselves into wicker chairs and were trundled out into the abyss. Below us and around us hot springs and sulphur vents steamed into the early evening air, whilst the volcano towered above us and the jungle spread out all around us. It was an amazing, if bizarre ride!
Crossing back along the suspension bridge, as the sun began to set, we snapped some final photos and had a cup of tea whilst watching the sun dip down from the cafe.
As evening set in, we hopped back on our bikes and rode off back towards the lights of the big city.
Kawah Rengganis Cibuni / the Rengganis Crater and Suspension Bridge Essential Information for Visiting
What is the entrance fee / ticket price for Kawah Rengganis Cibuni?
One ticket cost 100,000 IDR (£5.20 or $6.40) for the full package. This includes entry, the suspension bridge, hot springs and “Sultan’s Basket” as well as a free cup of tea. If you’re visiting the crater with the D&D tour, this entrance fee is included in the cost.
How long do I need at Kawah Rengganis?
Depends how pruney you want to get in the hot springs. We would recommend at least two hours to fully appreciate the beauty, bridge, basket and hot springs.
How to get to Rengganis Crater?
You will need your own transport, or a driver to get you to Kawah Rengganis.
From Bandung it’s just over 2 hour drive away and from Jakarta it is a 3.5 to 4 hour drive away depending on traffic.
What should I wear at Kawah Rengganis?
Make sure you bring swimwear. There are basic changing rooms for you to change into and you can leave your stuff at the booth next to the hot springs.
Make sure you take off any jewellery as the sulphur can corrode it!
If you’re going with a big group, this next point is less important but if you’re by yourself remember this is Indonesia and you may get some looks bathing in just a bikini.
What facilities are there at Kawah Rengganis?
As we’ve mentioned there are basic changing rooms at the hot springs.
Toilets are available throughout the park and next to the restaurant.
There is a restaurant on site as well as smaller food stalls in the car park.
Back To Bandung
Our day ended by our motorbike troop pulling into an unassuming warung just outside of Bandung. If you’ve not read our previous article about dining at a warung, then you’re in for a treat. Hands down, some of the best food you’ll encounter in the whole of Indonesia can be found in these down to earth eateries. We dined on rice, beef rendang, chicken curry, sambal and egg. It was delicious! Budi also brought us what may be the most unhealthy dessert in the world, start with cake, add butter, chocolate and cheese and you’re nearly there!
Leaving the warung with our bellies full, it was time for the last drive of the night. Twisting and turning like a pinball through the busy Saturday night traffic in downtown Bandung, we eventually turned off the main highroad and back down into the suburban side streets.
Arriving back at the hostel, we cracked open beers with our fellow travellers, clinked our bottles and toasted to an awesome day!
General Questions About Scooters and the D&D South Bandung Tour
How much does the tour cost?
The tour costs 650,000 IDR (£33.80 or $40.95).
This price is for the scooter, driver and all entrance fees as well as including breakfast, a couple of snacks and some tea.
The price does not include lunch, dinner or any other snacks.
How long is the tour?
The tour lasts all day.
We set off around 7am and weren’t back to the hostel until a little past 8pm.
Can I do this tour if I'm not staying at D&D?
Yes, just contact Budi at D&D Backpackers or head there and book in person.
You can also book various tours that take in the same highlights of south Bandung via Get Your Guide:
Can I do this tour if I cannot ride a bike or scooter?
Absolutely. Every person has their own driver and scooter and you are provided with a helmet.
I’ve not sat on the back of a scooter before, what can I expect?
You sit close to the driver and you can hold onto their waist, shoulders or the handles behind you.
Don't be disconcerted if they ask you to sit closer to them, it's much easier for the driver to balance the bike that way.
Once you set off you'll quickly settle into it and see there's nothing to worry about. Try not to squirm around too much, just sit, relax and take in the amazing scenery.
How to get to Bandung?
Getting to the capital of West Java is easy.
It is accessible by road, rail and air.
You can book bus or train tickets from pretty much anywhere in Java, by going to the stations or you can book in advance online via 12GO.
How to book a stay / tour?
If you’d like to experience this trip, why not book a stay at D&D Backpackers Guesthouse?
This simple and basic hostel offers both private and dorm rooms, with en-suite bathrooms and a common area outside.
The hostel is located in the north of Bandung in a quiet suburban street. As it’s a little way out of town, you will need to use taxis to get into the centre, or you can ask the staff to ferry you wherever you need to go. For those who can drive, there are also scooters available to rent during your stay.
The back of the bike tour runs everyday, just ask when you check in for more details.
To book your stay at D&D Backpackers Guesthouse click here.
Other Bandung Accommodation
If you’re looking for a little more luxury than a hostel, check out the map below for all of Bandung's accommodation choices.
If you're already in Bandung make sure you check out our other guides to the Sudirman Street Day and Night Market and where to find the best coffee in the city.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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